The Prodigal Chef Returns

September 10, 2024

By April Pearson

Chef Sam Gelman has fond memories of growing up in Iowa City and visiting Pearson’s Drug Store with his dad and grandpa for sandwiches and shakes. After leaving Iowa to cultivate his culinary prowess in major metropolitan areas like New York City, Boston and Toronto, Sam returned to Iowa City with his wife Riene and their son Charlie. “We felt strongly about raising our son in Iowa,” says Sam (pictured). “I was raised here, and I think that contributed a lot to who I am.”

Moving back also fulfilled Sam’s dream of opening a restaurant in Iowa City. The Webster launched in 2021, with Sam managing the kitchen and Riene operating the front of the house, as well as the beverage and service programs. In a stroke of sentimental serendipity, the Webster was founded in the same spot Pearson’s used to be. And the name? “Webster was my paternal grandfather’s name, and Charlie was my maternal grandfather’s. So we named our first restaurant and our first child after my grandfathers.”

Productive Partnerships

“Our philosophy at the Webster on sourcing is really based on seasonality and quality,” says Sam. Summer is tomato season in Iowa, so he’s been cooking a lot of dishes with tomatoes he sources from a farm less than five miles from the restaurant. Founded by Bob Braverman, Friendly Farm in Iowa City was Sam’s go-to for fresh ideas. “I became really close with Bob when I was in high school and just getting into cooking,” says Sam. “It was great having a local grower I could talk to and learn from.” When Sam returned to Iowa, one of his first calls was to Friendly Farm, now owned by Bob’s son David, to secure the restaurant’s supply of tomatoes. “The tomatoes are fantastic. I mean, that's what David does. He puts so much love into it. It's incredible.”

At Sam’s request, David also grows unique items, like spigarello broccoli, chocolate mint and several varieties of basil. In fact, there’s an entire basil salad on the menu at the Webster, made with toasted almonds, a light vinaigrette, and cardinal, cinnamon, holy, purple and globe basil.

The Webster sources ingredients from Trowel and Error, a two-acre vegetable farm at the Johnson County Historic Poor Farm in Iowa City and Stouts Market in Ainsworth. “Carly McAndrews from Trowel and Error has been great, so we work with her a lot,” says Sam. “And we always go with Stout’s for sweetcorn because we know it will be good.” Sam spends a lot of time at the Stringtown Grocery Store and Twin County Produce Auction in Kalona, shopping there several times a week during the growing season. He gets wild chantarelle mushrooms from local, certified foragers and morels from Blue’s Best — one of the only producers in the country cultivating morel mushrooms. He also buys fresh ingredients through Field to Family, a comprehensive regional food hub, and other local growers and producers.

The Meat of the Matter

“We buy our meat as much as we can locally and seasonally,” says Sam. Jason Grimm, a farmer in the North English area, provides all the chicken served at the Webster — about 680 chickens per year. “I’ve never had a chicken as good as his; it’s phenomenal,” says Sam. Grimm feeds his free-range chickens corn that he’s grown himself, which influences how they taste — a nuance that Sam brings out in his dishes. “That's why I like to serve our chicken with corn in the summer. It’s just awesome.”

Dan Haub provides the Webster with about nine whole Berkshire hogs each year, which Sam uses for pork chops, ham and sausage. The Webster also buys whole wagyu and Angus beef cows from Haubs and Jiyu American Wagyu — about five a year. Bud's in Riverside does the slaughtering, but the cooks at the Webster do the processing. “Cow day is quite an operation because it’s a lot of meat to process,” says Sam.

They grind the burgers, render the fat and dry age the meat in-house, letting nothing go to waste. “We use everything — ribs, strips and sirloins for large entrees; skirt steaks, tenderloins and flank steaks for smaller portions; shanks, arms and briskets for braises — it depends on the season.” And when the restaurant is out, it’s out until the next cow day. “We print new menus daily, so it’s up to date regarding what's available.”

An Eclectic Community
The Webster is where the community comes together, attracting a wide range of customers from all over Iowa. The restaurant offers special occasion meals and more affordable options, all served with the same commitment to quality. “You don't have to have an expensive meal every time you come,” says Sam. “You can certainly do that, but you can also eat at a price comparable to other restaurants in town but with better food, service and atmosphere.”

The Webster is more than just a restaurant. It’s a tribute to family, community and good food. “I think people who know us and our restaurant understand that at the end of the day, we're just trying to do what we believe in.”